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August 25, Andong
The aftermath of a getaway trip to Andong: the tendons in the top of my feet hurt. Did the mannequins at the museum curse me? Even though Andong is just an hour away from Gyeongju, the vibe could not be more different. Andong feels like a secret buried in the mountains, and many of the historical sites are tucked in valleys or next to cliffs– cliffs! I didn’t know Korea had cliffs. Andong looks different than any part of mainland Korea I’ve seen so far. The river that runs all the way through town cuts an impressive edge, so much so that I had to research if it was manmade.…
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How to spend 2 days, 1 night in Gyeongju, South Korea
Gyeongju was the capital of the Silla which ruled from 57 BCE to 935 CE, and with the support of the Tang in China, it conquered and absorbed the kingdoms around it, thus toppling the era of the Three Kingdoms. As such, Gyeongju is rife with historical treasures. It boasts tombs of kings and queens, ancient architecture, and historically accurate village restorations. Each site is hyperlinked to the dedicated Korean tourism page which has further information about opening times, costs, and parking. See the map assembled by the tourism organization here. SIGHTSEEING Nearly all the main attractions are along the road running north into the city which made sightseeing easy…
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August 19, Musings
A friend deftly pointed out that I have traded relationships for agency, albeit limited, when I switched schools. I am free to plan how I like, although unfortunately I have to ask Jack and Helen every week for a schedule since they seem reluctant to give me information all at once. Towards the end of this semester Jack leaned over to me after Helen had exclaimed surprise in Korean of how far along in the book he was. “We’re ahead so we can use the last four weeks for review,” he told me. There is no “we” in this mistake, Jack, you were the one who told me what chapter…
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August 16, Fresh Air
I drove to meet some friends for archery, all the while wanting to turn around to crawl back into bed and bemoan my stupidity at eating the fried chicken for lunch that gave me tummy troubles the night prior. “You know this will make you feel better. Meeting people when you’re in a funk always makes you feel better. Just go.” I did have to use my emergency Starbucks napkins in the dingy archery range toilet paper-less bathroom while I waited for the two public transit users to arrive. It was… good. As my rational brain promised. The older archery lady asked me to translate her instructions to the other…
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August 15, A Whiff of Fall
My friend and I took a lovely one night stay in Gyeongju, the original center of the Silla Kingdom. Gyeongju looked like the Korea I had always seen in tourist guidebooks but had never experienced: rice paddies, fields of tombs like mosquito bites, things that were old, things that were new but built in the traditional style. It was especially nice since my school made a little mistake. One of Jack’s camp kids ended up positive with COVID and as a result, Helen texted me the following Monday, my vacation day, to wait and see if I would also need to be tested. Fine. I stayed home all day waiting…
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Jack of all trades, master of none
My desires are pulling me in a hundred directions and my body is paying the price. I want to be an expert. In what, I can’t say. But I desperately am craving money, power, and recognition. I grew up being told I would change the world, and now I feel that prophecy hang around my neck like a chain that gets tighter every year I don’t accomplish the impossible. I was supposed to be living a life that made people gasp in awe and run hot with envy. There is a constant thread of “not good enough not good enough” that runs in the back of my head. Should I…
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August 1, Vaccine
Every miscommunication, foreigner on TV, student fight pushes me harder to learn Korean where I then hit a wall. How long must one muck around in the bogs of intermediate? It feels endless, this not-knowing. I tried out yet another new tutor on the recommendation of another teacher in the group chat. Lesson: don’t take advice from beginner learners. This tutor was kind but talked in the slow, stilted way teachers talk to low lever learners. I listen to native Koreans every day and it didn’t sit well in my ears. “You use the beginner grammar well but the intermediate grammar awkwardly.” I felt my confidence fall. Intermediate is a…
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Psychodidae
In a time before the Warrior was bequeathed with the heavy Knowing, a memorial was constructed to honor the folly of man. But Man was a fool, and his ill-conceit opened the gates to the immortal world far below. With no concern for his fellows, Man drilled deep into the evil of the underworld. No traps were laid, no sigils drawn, no offerings to honor the goddess Cheuksin. Lines intended to keep humanity safe were tread upon without care. And with such impetuous desecration, the seals were broken and terrible creatures ascended to the human plane. When the Warrior Knew, a battle unlike any in history unfolded. Demons rose from…
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July 31, End of Camp
And just like that summer camp is over. I was excited to start because this would be my first in-person camp. As you know, Covid canceled or mangled the ones planned in Seoul. Remember phone camp? What a week. What I hadn’t expected was the demographics of students, though I should have: I surmised that five were there for English interest, five were there because their parents wanted them to practice English, and the other ten were there because parents wanted them out of the house for a few hours. There were some Harry Potter obsessed fifth graders, a trio of boys I had to split up because the rest…
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I stood in my tiny little kitchen with the leaky sink, making pour over coffee into the mug I painted on a field trip in Seoul two years ago, in an apartment in an small city crescented by mountains that overlooks the ocean on the southern coast of Korea, and then suddenly thought: How odd that I ended up here. How unexpectedly routine. How serendipitous. How unbelievable. How lucky.