What was the most surreal thing that happened today? Was it the man who passed by and asked if I was Spanish, then we had a conversation in 3 languages (Korean, English, Spanish)? Was it the email that said I got my preferred placement and will firmly be in Seoul the next 14 months? Was it seeing a foreign man in a Gator shirt pushing a stroller and upon hearing my cry of “Go Gators” did a full 180 to repeat and do the chomp? Or was it that the Lotteria ordering kiosk actually had an English menu? All close contenders.

I’m at a cafe that’s “hip” with an English menu and “Burrito” neon sign which of course has on ordering kiosk that’s all Korean. I don’t feel deceived though, English is more like a fun accessory at the restaurants on this side of town. But the main takeaway is that I’m sitting next to two English-speaking Europeans who are loudly talking about what they don’t like in Korea: “Koreans are really closed off” Have you considered your behavior might be isolating? And that you don’t speak Korean aka the national language? And that the two of you are here with each other instead of inviting along your Korean classmates? “The…

So it turns out the 185 cm tall surly Chinese teenage classmate is actually fluent in English and sort of helpful when he’s not sighing loudly. He still rolls in late to class and uses breaks to smoke and honestly if this was 13 years ago it would be my tsundere manga fantasy coming to life. As it is now, I’m his overbearing big sister who uses our Korean presentation time to make fun of his smoking habits in front of the class: “Abigail, do like vegetables?” “Yes, I like vegetables. Hunjeong, do you like cigarettes?” I failed the first and only quiz BUT at least I’m having a good…

I bought index cards, I found the foreigner coffee shop, I forgot my phone at the stationary store, I left the coffee shop to retrieve my phone, I returned to the coffee shop to cram more vocab words in my already bruised brain, and I ate more things.

It took a whole morning but I finally built up the courage to go to lunch. I passed by a steak restaurant and went upstairs. This is the Dublin which has no steak but does have pork and chicken. There was also a pot of gravy for everyone to dip out of. Special thanks to the young man who came out behind the counter to signal that on the ordering screen two of the menu items were not available: “uh these not *makes x with arms*”.

I have never felt so at home in a foreign country as I did today squatting amongst piles of used clothing, tossing shirts from side to side to find the best deal at the bottom. In Korea, thrift finds you. I went to Dongmyo with the intention of finding a vintage store I passed the previous day. Instead I came up on blocks and blocks and blocks of indoor and outdoor tents selling used clothes. I never did get to my originally intended destination, but I’m realizing that’s just the type of city Seoul is. I came out of the thrift blocks then rows of pet shops then rows of…

I met a new Korean friend who is hosting a female language exchange with Russian/Hong Kong/Chinese/Panamanian members, took the bus, walked a mile uphill through Korea University campus, successfully proved my skills at the rink. A group of kids were playing around in front of me in the penalty box and it made me happy that they didn’t think twice about the only foreigner in the building. I also told a kid I thought his laces were cool (“와, 대박…좋아요”) but he got shy and didn’t look at me. His coach did, though.

An older man saw me studying at the convenience store (it was the only place open before 8 AM) and insisted on giving me a piece of gum and teaching me the correct pronunciation. I asked him if he could help me spell it and he rewarded me with extra candy from his bag. Maybe he secretly works for the Ministry of Korean Affairs, riding around on his bike playing 1960s Korean ballads trying to encourage foreigners to speak Korean. I can only guess.

Have you ever had a nightmare where you were late to your class and the teacher asked you to introduce yourself but you couldn’t and the whole class thought you were dumb? Don’t worry, I have now lived that for you. After taking a late placement test, I was assigned to a lower level than expected (disappointing) whose class already started. By the time I found the bookstore and returned, I was two hours late and entered a classroom so small no one could miss me. I had the classic “oh no where do I sit” and ended up next to a surly Chinese teenager who would later have his…